Last nights Spicy, Italian Eggplant and Chicken dish - nice to find another way to get Jim to eat eggplant! It isn't pretty but it was tasty.

Spent this morning checking a list of soda/salt recipes and posting them to my yahoo soda/salt firing group. I found a copy of the list on another site and a lot of the recipes were missing the additions. So I posted it again on my Yahoo group and I'm putting it out here for future reference and for those who are not part of the Yahoo group. These are just a few of the over 10.000 recipes I've collected, (some of my own creation,) over 37 or so years.


Soda Firing Glaze Recipes most in the C 9-11 range, a couple that will work at C7.

#166 Woo Blue Brown C9-10R

42 Custer Spar
18 Whiting
13 Ball Clay
27 Flint

Add: Red Iron oxide 4%, Rutile 4%, Bentonite 2%

#167 Shaner Yellow Red Glaze C 9-10

49 Custer Feldspar
20 Whiting
4 Talc
4 Bone Ash
23 Zircopax

ADD: IRON OXIDE 4%

#171 plum glaze C 9-10

4500 Custer Feldspar
1300 Whiting
2800 Silica
1100 EPK
776 Red Iron Oxide

#356 Sea Gull Eggs C9-10
(not to be used on interiors. Barium and nickel are toxic so use careful studio practices when handling).

96 Potspar
35 Barium Carbonate
20 Whiting
30 China Clay
30 Zinc Oxide
10 Rutile

#1009 a Jane Hamlyn glaze

subbing OM#4 ball clay for AT ball clay. This will run a bit at C 10 if you're firing to full cone ten you might want to add about 5-10 more grams of a combination of the ball clay and silica.

24 Custer Feldspar
18 Whiting
30 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay
30 Silica
ADD: 5 % Red Iron Oxide

#1014 Walter Keeler Blue C9-10

100 Potspar
60 Ball Clay
40 Dolomite
ADD: 1.3% Cobalt oxide
1.0 % Copper carb


#1170 Temmoku
It will go amber/gold in salt firing, black in soda.

316 Kingman Feldspar (can use G-200 or Custer)
204 Silica
75 EPK
133 Whiting
71 Red Iron Oxide

#1319 Chris Staley Red/Green

C7-10 Ox or Red.(because of high copper only use as exterior glaze). He fires porcleain so this may be at it's best on porcelain or on a white stoneware.

50 Custer Spar
15 Whitng
13 EPK
20 Flint
2 Dolomite
ADD: Bentonite 2%, Copper carb 8%, Red Iron Oxide 1%

#1320 Special Ash Cone 7-10 Red or OX Chris Staley

50 Mixed Hardwood ash
25 Kona F4 Soda spar
25 Tenn. #5 ball clay
Add: Cobalt carb 1%, Rutile 5%

#2297 Clear Liner Cone 5-10

50 Plastic Vitrox
50 Gerstley borate

Add: a handfull of Aberhill clay. (can use without this).

#2298 Clear

50 Colemanite (can use Gerstley borate)
50 Cornwall Stone

*add a handfull of kaolin, or Albany or Alberta slip, or Ochre, etc.

#2310 Sandra Johnstone Liner C10

15 Potspar
63 Albany slip (try Alberta slip as a substitute)
11 Whiting
6 silica
5 Red Iron Oxide

#2311 Sandra Johnstone Pumpkin glaze C10

44 Kingman Potspar (try Custer or G200)
12 Whiting
10 Barium carb
10 Kaolin
3 Silica

Add: 1 Red Iron Oxide %
6 Rutile
2 Bentonite
*Base is in grams and doesn't total 100%

#2333 June Perry Matt Kaki C 10 Reduction

In soda/salt this looks like a plum temmoku. I designed this as a regular C10 R glaze but it works well in soda/salt.

50.0 Custer Feldspar
18.0 Grolleg Kaolin
12.8 Silica
7.7 Whiting
11.5 Red Iron oxide

#2501 Kaki.
This is a regular C10 R beautiful Kaki glaze, which turns into a Temmoku on some bodies in soda firings.

55.90 Cornwall Stone
6.15 Talc
5.64 Wollastonite
10.26 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay
12.82 Calcined Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay
9.23 Silica

Add: 6% Red Iron Oxide

#2517 Sam Moligian's alkaline blue glaze C10 ox/red.

50.00 Kona F3 Soda Spar
21.42 Whiting
14.29 EPK
14.29 Barium carb.

A: Add: Zircopax 5%, Cobalt carb 0.5%, Red Iron oxide 1%. Bentonite 2%

NOTE: with this much toxic barium, only use as an outer glaze. My first test on this ran a bit with a flat cone 10, so you might want to not fire that high. I’ve added 2% bentonite but it may need a bit more EPK and a bit more silica for a full cone 10.

#2597 Wettlaufer Spodumene C10

26.5 Potspar
22.1 Dolomite
22.1 Ball clay
17.7 Spodumene
8.8 Zircopax
2.2 Tin oxide

#2659 Walter Keeler C 9 liner (this may be OK at c10).

70 Cornwall stone
30 Wollastonite
Add: 8% Red Iron Oxide

#2792 Randy's Green C9 Ox or neutral (may go to cone 10) (different than #7730 other Randy's green)

7.61 Dolomite
10.86 Whiting
26.09 Custer Spar
21.74 Kona F4 Spar
13.04 OM #4 Ball Clay
20.65 Flint

Add: Copper Carb 6.52%, Tin oxide 4.35%, Zircopax 8.70%

*WARNING - anything with this much copper should not be used on cooking surfaces. It will definitely fail the lemon juice test and may fade when exposed to long term dishwasher use.

#2807 Gustin Shino (good liner, apply thin, particulary if you use it on bisque,or it will crawl).

45 Neph Sy
11 F4 soda spar
15 Spodumene
15 Ball Clay
10 Calcined kaolin
4 Soda ash

#2914 Temple Wood fire/Light salt Cone 11 Persimmon

10.00 Bone Ash
5.71 Talc
7.15 Whiting
50.02 Custer Spar
5.70 EPK

#2985 Shaner Red altered for cone 10

45.7 Custer spar
3.7 Talc
21.5 6Tile clay
3.5 Bone ash
18.7 Whiting
5.4 Red Iron oxide
1.9 Bentonite

#3104 Rob's Green (Hunter green)
(different than Rob's Green #7730 on this list)

75 Cornwall Stone
18 Whiting
5 Gerstley borate
10 Copper carb
7 Strontium Carb
2 Bentonite

*WARNING: Don't use on food surfaces. It's unsafe because of the high copper content.

#3108 Oatmeal.
This is a recipe that I have used in regular C10 R firings.

49 Custer Feldspar
19 Dolomite
20 EPK
4 Whiting
4 Tin Oxide
8 Zircopax
2 Yellow Ochre

#3142 Jeff Oestrich high clay Shino
should be good liner C10

42.88 Neph Sy
10.28 Kona F4 Soda spar
14.47 Spodumene
14.29 OM#4 Ball clay
14.29 EPK
3.78 Soda Ash

#3148 Jeff Oestreich Shino
on Windsor porcelain..
This was one of the best soda/salt Shino recipes. It will carbon trap and makes a very good liner glaze. It may also work as an exterior glaze.

40 Nepheline Syenite
30 Spodumene
17 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay
5 EPK
8 Soda Ash

#3165 Amber Celadon C9-10 Dark treacle brown

(lighter on porcelain or white stoneware). You can use it very thin for reddish accents in soda.

36 Albany slip (try Alberta slip)
22 Custer spar
3 Gerstley borate
14 Wollastonite
8 Whiting
14 Flint
Add: 8% Yellow ochre

#4125 Sohngen Stony Yellow
This is a very nice matt, quiet, light green in soda.. This glaze is a matt yellow in a C10 R firing.

67.0 Kona F4 Soda Spar
34.0 Dolomite
21.0 Talc
14.0 Spodumene
9.0 Whiting
50.0 EPK
4.0 Bentonite
3.8 Red Iron Oxide

#5014 Gordon Hutchen high clay Temmoku C10 R

16.5 Alberta Slip
30.0 Local red clay
37.2 F-4 Soda spar
9.3 Ball clay (I use OM #4)
2.3 Borax
4.7 Red Iron ox.

(for the local red clay I think, if memory serves me, that I used Redart and I think it needs a lower melting red clay. Redart is a bit more refractory than your average earthenware. Next time I'm going to batch this with red clay from our property).

#5015 Shaner Shino slip (different than his others posted on this list)

36 Nepheline Syenite
12 Spodumene
9 Kona F4 Soda Spar
3 Soda Ash
12 Om #4 Ball Clay
28 EPK

# 5862 Vivika's Orange
This is another C10 R glaze that is used in regular C10 R firings. This glaze works great on porcelain or on white stoneware or over white or porcelain slip on stoneware bodies. Because of barium content only use only on exterior of pots or sub 4.95 strontium carb. for the barium. Not good on iron bearing stonware in soda/salt.

56 Kona F4 Sodaspar
15 Nepheline Syenite
13 Whiting
7 EPK
6.6 Barium Carbonate
8.0 Tin Oxide
4 Red Iron oxide.

Add: Red Iron oxide 2%, Rutile 4%

#6330 another Malcolm Davis Carbon Trap
This shino is darker than his other one I posted. This one works better, with better color over the porcelain slip.

38.6 Nepheline Syenite
9.3 Kona F4 Soda Spar
16.3 Soda Ash
5.7 Redart
17.9 EPK
13.0 OM #4 Ball Clay

#6362 Malcolm Davis Red Shino
(carbon traps. Crazed on porcelain in soda. OK on stoneware).

42.94 Nepheline Syenite
10.34 Kona F4 Soda Spar
7.00 Soda Ash
6.34 Redart
18.91 EPK
14.47 OM #4 Ball Clay

#6365 Amber celadon
(light amber on white bodies, more of a deep amber brown on higher iron bearing bodies)

26.09 Custer spar
25.97 Whiting
6.99 EPK
19.98 OM#4 ball clay
20.97 Silica
Add: 9.99% Yellow ochre, 2% Bentonite

#6601 June Perry's Chun blue
This chun did well in the soda/salt environment. The color is a lovely powder blue with a lot of pink/lavender color throughout on porcelain.

31.44 G-200 Feldspar
10.72 Ferro Frit 3134
4.09 Barium Carbonate
9.65 Dolomite
5.49 Whiting
1.56 Zinc Oxide
7.02 EPK
27.59 Silica
2.44 Tin Oxide

Color C, ADD: Copper Carb 0.5, Rutile 5.6, Cobalt carbonate 0.2%

#6925 June Perry blue green Celadon
(this is a very rich, buttery celadon that I use as a liner glaze) Color is deeper, richer with more reduction, but fine with light reduction.

31.12 G-200 Spar
5.05 Dolomite
18.01 Wollastonite
19.47 Grolleg
26.35 Silica
Add: macaloid1%
A: color add: 1/2% black iron oxide,2 tin oxide
B: color add: 5% alberta slip, 1% black iron oxide, 3% tin ox.
Another variation is to do B but substitute 1% cobalt oxide for the iron. It gives a very bright blue celadon. I use these as liners.

#7730 Randy’s Green
(not safe for functional ware)(different than #2892 other Randy's green)

22.8 Custer Spar
19.2 Kona F-4 spar
17.4 Flint
13.6 Barium carb
10.9 Ball clay
9.5 Whiting
6.6 Dolomite

A: add Opax 7.5%, copper carb 6%, Tin ox 4%

#7803 Val’s satin black
beautiful buttery, satin finish on this black glaze. Avoid using is as a liner. It may not be a safe liner on functional work due to the amount and type of oxides.

20 Custer spar
20 F-4 soda spar
2 Whiting
15 Dolomite
20 Flint
10 OM#4 ball clay

Add: Cobalt carb 3%, Red Iron 3%, chrome ox 1%, manganese dioxide 2%

#8436 June Perry Oribe
(this one stays bright green in soda) (don’t use as a liner. There’s too much copper in this for a safe glaze for functional ware. It won't go turquoise like Shaner Oribe; but will stay a nice bright green.

30 Custer spar
6 Talc
10 Whiting
5 Barium carb (can substitute 3.75 strontium carb for the barium)
5 Strontium carb
15 OM#4 ball clay
20 Silica

A: Add 6% copper carb, 4 tin oxide

#8473 Somebrite green
(apply very, very thin for best color. Goes too dark is applied normal thickness and can get a de-vitrified surface). Don’t use as liner glaze. It’s not safe with this much copper and low silica. It makes a nice accent glaze with flashing slips.

45 Custer spar
7 Whiting
10 Zinc Oxide
25 Strontium carb
13 OM#4 ball clay

A: add copper carb 5%, Rutile 1%, Red Iron Ox 1.25%

#8483 Robs Green
(not a safe glaze because of high copper content) don’t use on interior of pots.

70 Cornwall stone
16 Whiting
9 Barium Carb (can sub 6.75 strontium carb)
5 Gerstley Borate

Add: copper carb 8%, bentonite 3%

#8457 Yellow Salt (don’t apply too thin or it goes brown. Can get too shiny at full Cone 10) Best color on body with some iron content. This is a soft, not very durable glaze, so I wouldn’t use it as a liner. Cutlery will scratch the surface. (from John Britt's wonderful book).

60.7 Neph Sy
20.0 Dolomite
15.2 Zircopax
4.1 OM#4 ball clay

Add: bentonite 3.8%, Red iron oxide 0.9%
Can add some epsom salts to prevent hard settling.

#8719 Raw shino liner C 10

71.5 Neph Sy
28.5 OM#4 ball clay

#8891 Ayumi C9-10 (nice light green matt. Can craze if overfired it hit directly with too much soda)

3.6 Soda ash
11.0 Dolomite
5 .5 Whiting
36.4 Kona F-4 Soda spar
18.0 EPK
20.0 Strontium carb
5.5 silica

Add: Copper carb 1.5%, Bentonite 2%

#8980 Gustin Shino
(I use this one as a liner on raw pots or quite thin on bisque to avoid crawling). It might work better for bisque if you use calcined kaolin.

15.2 Spodumene
10.8 Kona F-4 Soda spar
4.0 Soda ash
10.0 EPK
15.0 OM#4 Ball clay
45.0 Neph Sy